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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 320,957. Patented June 30, 1885.

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 320,957. r Patented June 30, 1885.

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No. 320,957. Patented June 30, 1885.

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MAGHINE.

No. 320,957. Patented June 30, 1885.

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No. 320,957. Patented June 30, 1885.

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 820,957. Patented June 30, 1885.

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

N0.320,957. Patented June 30,1885.

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(No Model.) 11Sheets-Sheet 10. F. W. OSTROM.

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

'N0."3'20,957'. PatentedJune 30,1885.

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3 UNITED STATES PATENT FREELAND WV. OSTROM, OF BRIDGEPORT, GONNEOTIGUF ASSIGNOR TO THE XVHEELER & \(VILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 320,957, dated June 30, 1885. Application filed August14, 1884. (No model.)

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREELAND W. OSTROM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Button-Hole Sewing-lllachines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable otlr e'rs skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention has for its object to simplify and improve the construction of this class of machines, the essential principle being that the sliding and turning plates are actuated in both directions by a singlefeeding mechanism, which imparts to both of said plates the necessary motion to produce an even spacing of the stitches at the sides and around the end of the button-hole. I am thus enabled to work a button-hole in either direction by simply reversing the feed.

I have illustrated my invention in connection with an ordinary WVheeler 8t Vilson No. 10 machine; but it is equally applicable to other machines.

. In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a side elevation, partially cut away to show the application of the stop-motion; Fig. 2, a vertical longitudinal section; Fig. 3, a plan view, the arm being removed; Fig. 4, a plan View with the arm, sliding plate, feed-wheel, &c., re-

moved; Fig. 5, a bottom plan View; Fig. 6, a front end elevation. Figs. 7 and 8 are under 'side plan views of the sliding and turning plates and connections in reversed positions. Fig. 9 is an edge view of the sliding plate and connections; Fig. 10, a transverse section on the line 00 0c in Fig. 3,looking toward the left. Figs. 11 and 12 are enlarged detail views in elevation and section, respectively, of the cordholder. Fig. 13 is a detail of the feed-wheel and parts operating in connection therewith; Fig. 14, a side elevation of the foot and clamping meohanisnnwith the turning plate, the foot being lifted; Fig. 15, a similar view with the foot in its lowered position; Fig. 16, a bottom View of the foot; Fig. 17, a central cross-section of the foot; Fig. 18, a view of a buttonhole divided off to show the operation of difwith the rock-shaft; E, the take-up; and E,

thread-guides-all of which belong to the WVheeler & \Vilson No. 10 machine.

F is a loose pulley, over which the band passes; F, a pulley fast upon the main shalt; F, the brake-shoe; F, the brake-shoe arm; F*, the shipping-lever; F, the shipping-rod; F collars on said rod; F, the friction-spring; and F the brake-springall of which are described and claimed in my former Patent No. 303.453, granted August 12, 1884.

G is aswitch-cam, which may be of any con struction; but I preferably use the switch-cam described and claimed in my former Patent N 0. 303,317, August 12, 1884.

G is the follower.

H is a vibrating lever which is carried by a stud, H", secured in the bed-plate. (See Fig. 5.) This lever is provided with an arm, H, in which the follower is journaled.

H is the feed-actuating arm, which is pro vided with a slot, H as will be more fully explained.

H is the needle-vibrating arm, having a slot, H in which the needle-vibrating connectingbar H is adjustably secured.

I is the feed-link, which is adjustably se- 96 cured in slot H The other end of link I is pivoted to a stud, K, upon the outer end of vibrating tie-bar K, which is journaled upon a stud, K projecting upward from the bed plate.

K represents bosses, which raise the tie-bar above the bed-plate.

L is the feed-wheel, which is journaled on stud K and is provided with straight teeth L on its periphery, and has rigidly secured to it I00 and concentric with it a pinion, L for a purpose presently to be explained.

M is a double-pointed feed-pawl journaled' on stud K, which engages the teeth 011 the feed-wheel. This pawl is controlled by a triplever, M, also j ournaled on stud K. A spring, M whose opposite ends are attached to the feed-link and thetri'p-lever, acts to keep one point or the other of the pawl continually in engagement with the feed-wheel. When it is desired to feed to the right, the trip-lever is moved toward the right and comes in contact with a pin, M on the pawl, which is then moved until the right point comes in contact with the feed-wheel, in which position it is held by the spring. If it is desired to feed to the left, the triplever is moved in that direction, making nearly a half-revolution. Lug M on the trip lever then comes in contact with pin M and acts to lift the rightpoint out of engagement with the teeth of the feed-wheel and to'i'orce the left point into engagement therewith, where it is held by the spring, as before.

If (see Figs. 4 and 13) is a friction-spring pivoted to the bed of the machine, the opposite end of which bears upon the feed-wheel and acts to preserve the evenness of its I110- tionthat is to say, it prevents the wheel from throwing ahead, and, under certaincircumstances, from being dragged backward by the feed-pawl.

N is the sliding plate, which rests on the bed-plate of the machine and on gear L.

O is the turning-plate, which is supported in the sliding plate in any suitable manner. I have shown it as supported by turn-buttons N, pivoted to the sliding plate.

N is a sliding bar having slots N through which guidepins N upon the sliding plate pass.

7 N represents ra-clcteeth upon bar N which engage with pinion L', which imparts motion to said bar.

represents a mutilated circle of gear teeth on the under side of the turningplate and concentric therewith, which engages with a segment-gear, O

0 represents a gear-wheel, (a segment-gear may be substituted, i't'preierred, whi ch is made integral with. or rigidly secured to the segment and is concentric with it. Parts 0 and O are journalcd 'on a stud, 0*, projecting from the sliding plate, the outer end of said stud being preferably supported by a bracket, 0 also secured to'the slidingplate. The sliding bar N is provided with asection of rack-teeth, N, which mesh with gear 0" upon the segment, by means of which movement is imparted t0 the turning-plate.

P is a guide-plate secured to the bed of the machine by screws I.

I is the needle-guard projecting above said guide-plate, the construction of which will be morefully described.

0 is a pin on the under side ofthe turningplate, which engages straight slots P Pin the guide-plate. These slots are shown as connected by a curvedslot, P in which pin 0 eration would be the same it that portion of the plate were entirely removed, the metal surrounding the slot being retained to give strength to the plate.

P is an opening cut through plate I as a.

clearance forthe variable-motion link.

N is a pin. on the under side of the sliding plate, which engages in slotf]? in the guideplate. This slot is provided midway of its length with a curved portion, P which causes the slight deflection of the sliding plate necessary in stitching the first and last quarters of the round halfofthe buttonhole. Vhile the outer half of the round portion of the button-holeis being stitched pin N rests in the center of the curvature, all or which will be more fully explained.

L represents a pin on the under side of the feed-wheel.

Q is a cam-lever pivoted to the bed of the machine, with which pin L comes in contact during the formation of each button-hole.

R is a catch actuated by a spring, R, and passing through to the under side of the bed plate, where it is pivoted to a boss or lug, It". This catch engages in a notch, N, in the sliding plate, and acts to hold the sliding plate stationary while the turning-plateis making a half-revolution and the outer halfof the round portion of the button-1101c is being stitched. Suppose a button-hole is to be stitched by movement toward the left, the parts at the commencement would be in the position shown in Fig. 3, except that the feed-pawl should be reversed. At the instant that the first quarter of the round portion of the button-hole is finish edi. e.,when pin N is in the center of curvature P the sliding plate will have passed toithe left far enough to permit catch R to drop into notch N, which locks the sliding plate. Atthisinsiantthemovementoftheturning-plate begins. As the rotation of the feed wheel progresses pin L comes in contact with wall Q of canrlcver Q. The normal position of this lever is shown in Fig. 4, in which position it is held by spring Q, (see Fig. 5,) which passes through aperture A in the bedplate, and is secured in any suitable manner upon the under side of the bed-plate. WVhen pin L comes in contact with the eanrlever, the latter is forced, against the power of spring 6),, into the position shown in Fig. 13, at which moment the right cam-face Q is beginning to act on catch R to force it out of the notch in the sliding-plate to release it. At the instant that the outer half of the round portion of the button-hole is completed, the sliding plate is released and again moves forward, and the stitching of the last quarter of the round portion and the last half of the straightportion is then completed. During the stitching of this portion of the button-hole pin L passes be yond wall Q of the cam-lever, which upon be- I TO ing released is instantly drawn back to its normal position by spring Q. In stitching a button-hole toward the right the operation is reversed. Pin L comes in contact with wall Q of the cam-lever, which is moved into the reverse position from that shown in Fig. 13, at which instant the left cam -face Q begins to act' on catch R to force it out of notch N As before, at the instant that the outer half of the or in any suitable manner.

round portion of the button-hole is completed, the sliding plate is released and again moves forward. The pinion L upon the under side of the feed-wheel is made large enough so that less than a full revolution is made in stitching the longest button hole.

In the construction of the machine, having determined the length of the longest buttonhole that it is intended to stitch, the pinion L is so proportioned that when the end of the button-hole is reachedpin L will come in contact with the vibrating tie-bar K. If the buttonholehas been stitched toward theleft, pin L will come in contact with the right side of the tiebar; it toward the right, then the pin will come in contact with the left side of the tie-bar. The effect is to stop the feed at the instant that the length of the longest button-hole is reached. Suppose that the button-hole has been stitched toward the left; when the predetermined limit has been reached pin L will come in contact with the right side of the tie bar. The left point of the feed pawl will of course be acting on the feed-wheel to move it forward; but the instant the pawl is lifted the vibration of the tie-bar will carry the feed-wheel backward just the distance that it was carried forward by the feed-pawl, so that in the event of the failure from any means of the automatic stopping mechanism no injury can result to any portion of the machine, as it will be impossible to feed in either direction.

F is a catch-lever, which passes through a slot, A, in the bed-plate, and is pivoted there- The up per end of this lever projects above the bed-plate snfficient distance to permit it to be readily grasped by the hand.

F is a plate secured to the bedplate, and having a lug or projection, F, adapted to be engaged by the catch-lever. Beneath the bedplate this lever is provided with a right-angled projection, F, to which a wire or cord may be attached to enable the lever to be operated by the knee of the operator or a treadle, The heel of lever F rests in the slotted end of the shipping-rod and bears against the frictionspring F.

N N are a pair of adjustable dogs secured at the edge of the sliding plate, which-act to gage thelength of the button-hole, and also, by

means of their beveled faces N", to throw off the catch-lever from the shoulder in plate F at the completion of each button-hole.

In commencing each button-hole,lever F is carried toward the left and engaged with lug 5 F on plate F This acts to force the loose pulley against the tight pulley and starts the machine, all of which is fully described in my former Patent No. 303,453. At the instant that the end of the button-hole is reached one or the other of the dogs will come in contact with the catch-lever and release it from lug F. This releases the loose pulley from its contact with the tight pulley, and allows the brake-spring to act to stop the machine, all of which is fully explained i1. my former patent just referred to.

As stated above,the rear end of the needlevibrating connecting-bar H is adjustably secured in slot H from which point it extends forward under the arm and is pivoted, as at S, to the needle-vibrator S. An important featureof my invention consists in making slot H in the needle-vibrating arm an arc of a circle, of which pivot S is the center. By this construction I am enabled to increase or diminishthe vibration of the needle without affecting the inner line of the stitching, and without the necessity of making the needlevibrating connecting bar longitudinally adj ustable. This vibrator is pivoted, as at S", to the head of the machine, is curved around the needle-bar, and extends downward upon the outside of the head, being provided with a vertical slot, Siwhich is engaged by an arm, T, extending upward from the needle-carrier T.

D is a collar secured at the lower end of the needle-bar by a set-screw or in any suitable manner. D is a projection at one side of this collar. T is a similar projection on the needle-carrier, which is pivoted to projection D", as at T.

It will of course be apparent that pivots S and T must be exactly in line with each other, as the needle-carrier and the vibrator must oscillate in the same are.

The needle D is secured in the needle-carrier in the same manner that it is ordinarily secured in the needle-bar. Instead ofdeseending in the ordinary manner, however,the action of the vibrating connecting-bar H" and the vibrator S is to cause the needle to descend alternately within and without the but ton-hole, as will be more fully explained.

The needle-guard P is provided with an elongated slot or opening, P, to accommodate the vibration of the needle. This needleguard also serves as a guide for the cord when corded button-holes are desired, the construction being such that the cord may be fed in either direction. Fig. 11 is a left-side view of my combined needle-guard and cord-holder, and Fig. 12 is a transverse section thereof. The cord is carried in any suitable manner as, for instance, on a spool placed between disks 10 p on the spindle 1). From the spool the cord passes up through an aperture, 1)", in the cord-guide; then, if the button-hole is to be stitched toward the right, the cord is passed to the left in groove 19 (see Fig. 4) around at the left side of the guide in groovep, (see Fig. 11,) then across the guide in groovep, (see Fig. 4,) which latter groove intersects the needle-slot, as shown in Fig. 4, so that in ICC operation the needle descends alternately on opposite sides of the cord. If the buttonhole is to be stitched toward the left, the cord is passed toward the right in groove 19', then around at the side of the guide in a groove corresponding to p and back from right to left in groove 1). p (see Fig. 3) is a springcatch, which holds the end of the cord at the beginning of a button-hole.

(see Figs. 1 and 2) is a bracket secured in any suitable manner to the turning-plate.

O is a screw-threaded stud projecting from the bracket.

U is the foot for holding the goods in which the button-hole is to be stitched.

U isan arm forming part of the foot,which is pivoted to bracket 0 The stud 0 passes through an aperture in arm U.

U is a spring under the arm, which acts to raise it.

U is a nut on the stud, to which cam-lever U is pivoted. Fig. 14 shows the cam-lever and the foot in their raised positions. To clamp the foot down upon the goods, the camlever is turned down against the power of spring U", as clearly shown in Fig. 15. The pressure upon the goods when the lever is turned down is regulated by screwing nut U up or down on the stud.

. U represents a flange projecting downward from the foot. This flange corresponds substantially in outline with the button -hole which it is desired to stitch, (in the present instance an eyelet end button-hole is shown,) except that the flange comes in contact with the goods about three-sixteenths of an inch from the cut for the button-hole, or outside the line of stitching.

0 (see Figs. 7 and 8) represents an aperture in the tu-rningplate, corresponding in shape with flange U. This aperture is sufficiently large to allow the flange to pass slightly below the upper surface of the plate, and also to receive the needle-guard, which reach es nearly to the upper surface of the turningplate.

The holding-surface of the foot consists of a serrated plate, U having a central opening, U, corresponding in shape with flange U which just permits the plate to pass freely over the flange. The serrated plate is heldin position upon the body of the foot by screws U, operated from the top of the plate.

U represents springs between the body of the foot and the serrated plate,which are also held in position by the screws, and act to hold the serrated plate away from the body of the foot when the latter is lifted, as in Fig. 14; but when the foot is pressed down, as in Fig. 15, the springs are compressed and the goods held firmly between the serrated plate and the turning-plate. The action of the flange as it is pressed down below the surface of the plate into aperture 0 is to stretch that portion of the goods over the apertureand which contains the button-hole to be stitched--like a drum-head, the effect being to open the button-hole and to strain all portions alike.

U represents the enlargement in the flange and serrated plate to give room for the outer line of the stitching in passing the eyelet.

The operation of the entire machine is as follows: For convenience in illustration the machine has been shown not threaded and with no work under the foot. The button-hole may be cutin any suitable manner; or, if preferred, the button-hole may be out after stitching. Fig. 14 illustrates the foot in position to receive the work. The cut for the button-hole is placed centrally under the foot, which is then clamped down by the cam-lever, as shown in Fig. 15. It will of course be understood that the center of the eyelet should be concentrio with eyelet-opening U In Fig. 3 the parts are shown in the position of finishing a button-hole which has been stitched toward the right. Having completed the button-hole, the parts are in position for. stitching a button-hole toward the left, except that the right point of the feed-pawl should be lifted from the feed-wheel and the left point placed in engagement therewith,which is done by moving the triplever toward the left. In Fig. 19 the parts are represented as in position to commence the stitching of a button-hole toward theleft. Having placed the work in position under the foot and clamped it there, the machine is ready to be started. This is done by moving the catch-lever toward the left and holding it until engaged with the lug on the catch-lever plate. This movement operates the frictionclutch, causing the loose pulley to engage the tight pulley, thus starting the machine, as fully eX- plained in my former patent, referred to above. The follower, traveling in the grooves of the switch-cam, causes the vibration of lever H. The feed-link I, which carries the feed-pawl, is adj ustably secured in slot H in arm H", and is actuated by said arm to rotate the feed-wh eel. The length of the stitches is controlled by the position at which the feed-link is secured in slot H'*. To lengthen the stitch, the feed-link is moved outward from the pivotal point of the vibrating lever H. To shorten the stitch, the

feed-link is moved inward. It should be understood that in changing the stitch the feedwheel should also be changedthat is, a feedwheel of the same diameter should be inserted, but having finer or coarser teeth, as may be required. This change, however, is seldom required in this class of machines, the essential feature being that the spacing of the stitches remains the sarhe, no matter what changes may be made in the length of the button-hole. As the feed-wheel rotates pinion L is carried with it. This pinion meshes with rack-teeth N upon sliding bar N Rack-teeth N upon this bar are in engagement with gear 0 but as the turning-plate is held against rotation by the engagement of pin 0 in slot 1? in the guideplate, the action of pinion L is to carry the sliding plate, and with it the turning-plate,

forward in one direction or the other-in the present instance toward the left. This movement continues until pin 0 reaches the end of the straight slot P and is ready to pass into the curved slot or clearance P, at which instant pin N on the sliding plate will have reached the center of the curvature l? in slot P in the guide-plate. Pin L will have just come in contact with the left wall of cam-lever Q, and catch R will have passed into notch N in the sliding plate, the effect being tolock the sliding plate and release the turning-plate. At this moment the section of the buttonhole indicated by a in Fig. l8that is, the first half of the straight part and the first quarter of the eyelet part of the button-ho1ewill have been completed and the stitching of the section indicated by b-that is, the second and third quarters of the eyelet part-will commence. The continued movement of the sliding bar now acts to impart movement to gear O ,whichcarries the segment 0 The latter, meshing with the mutilated circle of gear-teeth 0, causes the turning-plate to make just a half-revolution. During this time pin 0 travels the entire length of the curved slot or clearance, and as the third quarter of the eyelet part of the button-hole is completed said pin 0 has reached the straight slot 1?" in the guide-plate. During this time pin L on the feed-wheel has been acting to carry the cam-lever into the position in which it is shown in Fig. 13, at which moment the right cam-face of said camlever has commenced to act on catch R to release it from notch N in the sliding plate. This releasement of the sliding plate is effected at the exact instant that pin 0 reaches slot P in the guide-plate, and the stitching of the outer halfi. 6., the second and third quarters of the eyelet-is completed. Having effected the release of the sliding plate, pin L passes away from the cam-lever, which, upon being released, is drawn back to its normal position. The turning plate is now held against further rotation by the engagement of pin 0 with the straight slot 1?, so that parts 0 O, and 0 form a positive connection, as in the first instance, thus causing the sliding plate to move forward to complete section a of the button-hole-that is, the last quarter of the eyelet and the last half of the straight portionthe eyelet being finished while pin N is traveling in curvature I in the slot in the plate P, and the straight part being completed while said pin is traveling in the straight part of said slot, which is at the left of the curvature. Pin 0 at the same time is travelin g toward theleft in the straight slot 19* in the guide-plate. Briefly, then, the first straight portion of the button-hole is stitched while pin N is traveling from the right of slot 1? toward the curvature at its center. As the pin passes into said curvature it causes a slight deflection in the line of movement of the sliding plate, during which the first quarter of the eyelet is stitched. The turning-plate has been stationary and pin ()has been traveling in one of the straight slots in the guide-plate up to the completion of the first quarter of the eyelet. At the instant that pin N reaches the center of the curvature P it stops, the sliding plate being locked, and the turning plate begins its ward. As pin N moves out of the curvature P the last quarter of the eyelet is completed.

At this instant the pin will have reached the straight portion of the slot on the opposite side of the curvature, and the sliding plate will move in a right line until the stitching of the second straight portion of the button-hole is completed.

The length of the button-h ole is determined by the adjustment of the dogs N upon the sliding plate. To lengthen the button-hole, these dogs are each moved an equal distance in opposite directions. To shorten the button-hole,they are moved closer together. Each of the dogs is provided with a beveled face, N, which at the instant the button-hole is completed forces the catch-lever out of e11- gagement with the lug on plate F which releases the friction-spring, thus disconnecting the tight and loose pulleys, and also allows the brake-spring to act, which stops the machine almost instantly.

The stitching of a button-hole toward the right is performed in precisely the same manner. The work is adjusted as before; but no adjustment or setting of the machine is required other than a single movement of the trip-lever toward the right, which disengages the left point of the feed-pawl and places the right pointin engagement with the feed-wheel. The machine may then be started, as before, by moving the catch-lever to the left. As stated above, no damage can result to the machine should the automatic stopping mechanism fail to act, as the feeding action must stop the instant that pin L comes in contact with the vibrating tie-bar, as has been fully eX-' plained. Should the machine fail to stop, therefore, at the end of the button-hole, the

only result would be a piling up of stitches until the thread broke.

An important feature of my present machine is that the construction enables me to dispense with all mechanism for vibrating the sliding plate, and also avoid vibration of the needle-bar. The needle-carrier is so pivoted to the needle-bar as to be free to swing in a short arc, thus causing the needle to descend alternately upon the inside and the outside of the button-hole.

The amount of vibration imparted to the carrier determines the depth or bight of the stitches in the goods. The pivotal point of the vibrator is in a vertical line with the pivot of the carrier, and any suitable connection may be made between them which will persaid bar.

To deepen the bight of the stitch in the goods, the pivot which connects bar H with the needle-vibrating arm is loosened and said pivot is moved in slot away from the pivotal point of the vibrating lever.

To lessen the bight of the stitch in the goods, the pivot of bar H is moved toward the pivotal point of the vibrating lever.

I do not of course limit myself to the exact construction shown and described, as the details may be varied in many respects with out departing from the spirit of my invention.

I claim 1. The vibrating tie-bar carrying the feedpawl, the feed-wheel, and a gear carried there by, in combination with the sliding bar, the independent sliding plate, and gear 2. The feed-wheel, a gear carried thereby, and an independently-sliding bar actuated by said gear, in combination with the sliding and turning plates, and meehanismfor example,

, gears O O -for connecting the turning-plate with the sliding bar.

3. The combination, with clamping and stitching mechanism, of the double-pointed feed-pawl and actuating mechanism, the feedwheel, and a pinion carried thereby, the sliding plate, and a bar engaging the pinion and.

adapted to slide independently of said plate. 4. The combination, with clamping and stitching mechanism, the pinion, feed-wheel, and double-pointed feed-pawl, of a turningplate carried by the sliding plate, a bar having teeth engaging the gear and carried by the sliding plate, but adapted to move inde pendently thereof, and intermediate mechanismwhereby motion may be imparted to the turning-plate from the sliding bar.

5. The feed-wheel and pinion, in combination with the sliding and turning plates, and an independent sliding bar having sections N N of rack-teeth, and gears O 0, whereby the turning-plate is actuated.

6. The combination, with the feeding mechanism and the sliding plate having a notch, N of a catch engaging said notch, a turning-plate carried by the sliding plate, and in termediate gearing, as 0 0, which acts to rotate the turning-plate when the sliding plate is-held and to carry both plates forward when the sliding plate is not held.

7. The turning-plate having gear-teeth O, and asegmentgear engagingtherewith and carrying a gear, 0", in combination withthe sliding bar having sections N N of rack-teeth, the sliding plate, and the feed-wheel and pin- 1011.

8. The combination, with the tight and loose pulleys, the brake, friction and brake springs, and'rod, of the catch-lever and its plate, and adjustable dogs upon the sliding plate, one of which acts to release the catch-lever and the.

friction-spring at the completion of a buttonhole.

9. The combination, with the sliding and. turning plates, the cloth-clamp, and actuating mechanism, of the catch-lever and its plate, the stop mechanism, and adjustable dogs on the sliding plate, whereby the length of the button-hole may be regulated.

10. The sliding plate having a notch at one side and a catch adapted to engage said notch, in combination with the feed-wheel having a pin upon one side, and a lever having camfaces which act on the catch, and walls against- Which said pin acts, thereby releasing the sliding plate.

11. The double-acting cam-lever against which the catch rests, and which is provided with walls Q Q and with cam-faces Q Q', in

combination with the feed-wheel having pin L the sliding plate, and the catch.

12. The cam-lever having cam-faces Q, Q, which act against the catch, and walls Q Q, against which pin L acts, in combination with spring Q", which returns the cam-lever to its normal position, the sliding plate having notch N the spring-actuated catch, and the feed-wheel carrying pin L.

13. The feed-pawl and actuating mechanism, in combination with the vibrating tie-bar which carries said pawl, and the feedwvheel having a pin which comes in, contact with the tie-bar when a revolution has been nearly completed, whereby the feed-wheel is caused to vibrate without forward movement.

14. Stud K carrying the vibrating tie-bar and the feed-wheel, and actuating mechanism, in combination with a double-pointed pawl, and trip-lever carried by the tie-bar, and

the feed-wheel having a pin which comes in contact with said tie-bar when the revolution is nearly completed, whereby said feed-wheel may be caused to feed in either direction until said pin strikes the tie-bar.

15. The sliding plate and the turning-plate carried thereby, in combination with a reversible feeding mechanism,intermediate connecting n1cchanismfor example, the independent sliding bar and gearing-for connecting both plates with the feeding mechanism, and a spring-catch, whereby the sliding plate is moved forward a predetermined distance, then held while the turning-plate is caused to make a half-revolution, and then released and moved forward to complete the button-hole.

16. The eombinatiomwith a reversible feed ing mechanism, the sliding bar, and gears O 0 of the sliding plate carrying the turning- ICO plate, and having a pin which engages a slot with a curvature at its center, as and for the purpose set forth.

17. The sliding plate and the turning-plate carried thereby, in combination with feeding mechanism, intermediate connecting mechanism-for example, the sliding bar and gearing, as shown-a spring-catch engaging the sliding plate, and adjustable dogs on the sliding plate which act on the catch-lever which controls the friction and brake mechanism, whereby the sliding plate ismoved forward a predetermined distance, then held and the turningplate moved half round, when the sliding plate again moves forward until one of the adjustable dogs engages the catch-lever.

18. The sliding plate having a pin which engages a slot with a curvature at its center, and the turning-plate having a pin which engages two slots connected by a clearance, in combination with the spring-catch, the camlever, the feed-wheel carrying a pin, and mechanism-for example, the sliding bar and gearing-between the feed-wheel and the two plates, whereby the sliding plate is moved forward, then obliquely by said curve, and held while the turning-plate is turned half round, when the sliding plate moves obliquely again, then forward, as before.

19. The guide-plate having parallel longitudinal slots on opposite sides of the needleguard, the outer ends of which are connected by a curved slot or clearance, and a longitudinal slot with a curvature at its center, in combination with the sliding and turning plates having pins which engage said slots, and operating and connecting mechanism.

20. The guide-plate having slots P P P and P sliding plate having pin N and the turning-plate having pin and gear-teeth O, in combination with segment 0 gear 0 the sliding bar having rack-teeth N N, and the feed-wheel and pinion.

21. The sliding plate having notch N and pin N engaging slot 1? with curvature P and the turning-plate having pin 0 engaging in slots 1?, P", and P in combination with catch B, the feed-wheel, and connecting mechanism.

22. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination of the following instrumentalities, to-wit: a turning-plateto which thework is secured, a sliding plate which carries the turning-plate, a spring catch engaging the sliding plate, feeding mechanism, and intermediate connecting mechanism-for example, the sliding bar and gearing-and the slotted guide-plate engaged by pins upon the sliding and turning plates, whereby both plates are fed forward to stitch the first straight side, then moved slightly from the direct line to stitch the first quarter of the eyelet, then the sliding plate is held and the turning-plate rotated to stitch the outer half of the eyelet, after which the turning-plate again moves forward to complete the button-hole.

23. In a button-h ole sewing-machine,a plate having an aperture corresponding in general outline with a button-hole, in combination with a foot having a downwardly-projecting flange adapted to fit within said aperture,and a serrated plate loosely secured to the foot outside of said flange and adapted to yield vertically relatively to the flange when the foot is lowered.

24. The turning-plate having a bracket to which the foot is pivoted, and an aperture corresponding in general outline with a button-hole, in combination with a flange provjecting from the foot and adapted to fit within said aperture, a serrated plate secured to the foot through which the flange projects and which is adapted to yield vertically relatively thereto, and a cam-lever to clamp it down, whereby the cloth within the aperture is stretched like a drum-head after being clamped.

25. The turning-plate having an aperture corresponding in general outline with a button-hole, in combination with a flange upon the foot which fits within said aperture, an independent serrated plate surrounding the flange, which is adapted to bear upon theturning-plate and to yieldvertically relatively to the flange, and a cam-lever for pressing the serrated plate. down upon the work.

26. A plate having an aperture, in combination with a swinging foot carried by said late, said foot having aflange which is adapted to fit within the aperture, and a serrated plate which is loosely attached to the foot and is forced downward by springs located between said serrated plate and the foot.

27. An open foot for button-hole sewingmachines having a serrated plate loosely attached thereto which holds the work, springs which press said plate downward, and aflange projecting belowsaid plate, in combination with a plate having an aperture which receives said flange, and a cam-lever for pressing down the foot, whereby the cloth within said aperture and flange is tightly stretched and the button-hole fully opened from end to end.

28. The combination, with a plate having an aperture and carryinga swinging foot, and mechanism for imparting longitudinal motion to said plate, of a combined needle-guard and cord-carrier, which projects upward into said slot and is provided with cross-slots and side grooves, whereby the cord may be fed in either direction.

29. A plate having an aperture and carrying the foot, and mechanism for imparting movement to said plate, in combination with a needle-guard and cord-carrier having an elongated needle-slot, a hole through which the cord enters from below, alongitudinal slot communicating therewith, cross-slots at each side, and a main-cord slot crossing the needleslot midway of its length, whereby the cord may be fed in either direction and will pass between the two lines of stitching.

30. The needle-bar having a collar at its lower end provided with an inward projection, and the needle-carrier pivoted to said projec- I the turning-plate carried thereby, which car- 7 tion and having an upwardly-projecting arm, in combination with the vibrator pivoted to the head in a vertical line with the needleearrier pivot, and having a vertical slot in which the carrier-arm slides, and a connectingbar which imparts motion to the vibrator.

31. The combination, with the spindle and disks for holding the cord-spool, and the cordholder having openings 1) and p and grooves which permit the cord to be fed either way, of the foot, the sliding and turning plates, and actuating mechanism.

32. The vibrating lever having arms H' H, which actuate the feed-wheel and the needlevibrator, in combination with the sliding plate,

ries the foot, the catch engaging the sliding plate, and intermediate connecting mechanism-for example, the sliding bar and gears 20 O O"-whereby the foot is moved forward and turned, then forward again, and the needle is caused to descend alternately within the button-hole and into the goods surrounding it. 33. The needle bar having a collar, the needle-carrier pivoted thereto and having an arm, T, and the slotted vibrator pivoted back of the needle-bar, around which it curves and extends downward in front of the head, in combination with an arm pivoted to the vibrator, whose other end is pivoted in aslot in the needle-vibrating arm, said slot being an arc of a circle of which the vibrator-pivot is the center, as and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I afiix my siguaturein presence of two witnesses.

FREELAND WV. OSTROM.

\Vitnesses:

A.l\I. \VoosTER, O. N. VVORTHEN. 

